Philly, DC and Toronto.

After crossing the Chesapeake tunnel-bridge I was clearly back in the North-East, and things felt more like city-trips than a motorcycle adventure.

I camped out one last night at the Maryland - Delaware border (near a town called "Delmar"). I got to talking with a fellow camper. He was out camping with his entire family for a few weeks, as he was between houses (no euphemism for homelessness, he sold his old house before being able to move in to the new one). You really do meet the most interesting people on American campgrounds.

The next morning I headed straight for the city of brotherly love -- Philadelphia. An old college friend was generous enough to host me for a few days, and show me around the city. I quickly fell in love with Philly's history (liberty bell), majestic East Coast architecture, university district, museums (including the eerie Mütter, a museum of medical history..) and, of course, cheese steaks.

Amazing city hall.

 Cobblestone streets

Philly's oldest bar? I imagine Jefferson or Franklin coming here for a pint. 

One of Philly's many, many murals.

Toaster, my host's lazy and docile cat.

A few days later I headed south again towards my final stop - the nation's capital. Once again I was lucky enough to land a spot on a college friend's couch -- only a few blocks from the Capital! Having done most of the sights during an earlier stay in DC, I went to explore the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum. Free to all, this museum chronicles the history of flight, all the way to modern jets and space programs. Across the Mall I entered the National Archives - and went to see the original Declaration of Independence, Constitution and Bill or Rights.

Leaving on Saturday I hit very heavy rain most of the day. I stayed on the highways and steered clear from the scenic routes through Pennsylvania. My last night on the road I spent in a Motel 6 in Altoona, PA. Without much fanfare I returned to Canada and then Toronto via Buffalo. I took a hot shower at home - so much richer in memories, experiences and lessons learned. Maybe I'll even share a few in a next post.

The South pt. 2

I came into Tennessee by way of Memphis (home of the sixth largest pyramid in the world - look it up!). Very lively city as well. I went for Memphis ribs; every region in the south has their own style of BBQ.

Heading east I dipped down into Mississippi and Alabama. First impression - so many churches! In Mississippi I had my first taste of boiled peanuts, a true southern delicacy.

One of many.. Such as Pimento Cheese ("the caviar of the south"), pictured here on a burger.

In Alabama I visited the Cathedral Caverns on a hunch - they were absolutely amazing! These caverns were discovered in the sixties by an intrepid explorer. The walking tour went over a mile into the caverns - featuring massive rock formations, gorgeous calcium pillars and amazing gem chambers. I also quite enjoyed our guide, an elderly Alabama farmer with the thickest southern accent imaginable.

From Alabama I traveled into the Great Smoky Mountains. First stop - famous motorcycle road Tail Of The Dragon -  US129 in North Carolina. This 11 mile road sports 318 curves. Honestly - it got a little much for me after the first 100 or so. It's a road better suited for a lean sports bike than a fully loaded cruiser. I'd find something more to my liking further east in NC though.

Before getting there I stayed in Asheville for one night. It's a compact city with a bit of a Portland vibe. My AirBnB host took me out to some of the many breweries in the town. The city also features some really unique architecture and buildings; along with some great restaurants.

Such as this high rise with a cathedral-like roof (?).

A southern breakfast - Country ham biscuit with fried green tomatoes and red eye gravy. Absolutely delicious.

I left Asheville by way of the famous Blue Ridge Parkway and must say - this has been the best motorcycle road I've had the pleasure of riding on (including the California coastal highway). The smooth 400 mile road continuously winds through the Appalachians; it's curvy but perfectly so for the 45mph speed limit. It has tunnels and bridges. It's low traffic, does not pass through towns and has relatively courteous drivers. I took my sweet time and stayed at one of the many federal campgrounds flanking the road. It's an absolutely quintessential road if you're looking for relaxed motorcycle cruising.

I left the BRP in Virginia and crossed the state on my way to the Atlantic. I remember only three things - churches, red brick houses and tobacco fields. On one of the campgrounds I was invited to join two families around a camp fire. Both families were all in the navy - parents, kids and girlfriend. They did love talking shop - what I remember: a lot of acronyms.

But - I did make it to the Atlantic!

I left Virginia - and with that, the South - over/through the Chesapeake tunnel-bridge. This engineering marvel spans 20 miles of Atlantic, has two tunnel sections and four bridges. A truly impressive ride, especially given the.. adverse weather conditions.

Lookout before one of the tunnel sections.