Sunday, 6 September 2015

The South pt. 2


I came into Tennessee by way of Memphis (home of the sixth largest pyramid in the world - look it up!). Very lively city as well. I went for Memphis ribs; every region in the south has their own style of BBQ.


Heading east I dipped down into Mississippi and Alabama. First impression - so many churches! In Mississippi I had my first taste of boiled peanuts, a true southern delicacy.

One of many.. Such as Pimento Cheese ("the caviar of the south"), pictured here on a burger.

In Alabama I visited the Cathedral Caverns on a hunch - they were absolutely amazing! These caverns were discovered in the sixties by an intrepid explorer. The walking tour went over a mile into the caverns - featuring massive rock formations, gorgeous calcium pillars and amazing gem chambers. I also quite enjoyed our guide, an elderly Alabama farmer with the thickest southern accent imaginable.


From Alabama I traveled into the Great Smoky Mountains. First stop - famous motorcycle road Tail Of The Dragon -  US129 in North Carolina. This 11 mile road sports 318 curves. Honestly - it got a little much for me after the first 100 or so. It's a road better suited for a lean sports bike than a fully loaded cruiser. I'd find something more to my liking further east in NC though.

Before getting there I stayed in Asheville for one night. It's a compact city with a bit of a Portland vibe. My AirBnB host took me out to some of the many breweries in the town. The city also features some really unique architecture and buildings; along with some great restaurants.

Such as this high rise with a cathedral-like roof (?).

A southern breakfast - Country ham biscuit with fried green tomatoes and red eye gravy. Absolutely delicious.

I left Asheville by way of the famous Blue Ridge Parkway and must say - this has been the best motorcycle road I've had the pleasure of riding on (including the California coastal highway). The smooth 400 mile road continuously winds through the Appalachians; it's curvy but perfectly so for the 45mph speed limit. It has tunnels and bridges. It's low traffic, does not pass through towns and has relatively courteous drivers. I took my sweet time and stayed at one of the many federal campgrounds flanking the road. It's an absolutely quintessential road if you're looking for relaxed motorcycle cruising.




I left the BRP in Virginia and crossed the state on my way to the Atlantic. I remember only three things - churches, red brick houses and tobacco fields. On one of the campgrounds I was invited to join two families around a camp fire. Both families were all in the navy - parents, kids and girlfriend. They did love talking shop - what I remember: a lot of acronyms.

But - I did make it to the Atlantic!

I left Virginia - and with that, the South - over/through the Chesapeake tunnel-bridge. This engineering marvel spans 20 miles of Atlantic, has two tunnel sections and four bridges. A truly impressive ride, especially given the.. adverse weather conditions.

Lookout before one of the tunnel sections.


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